New's startrr the light lord into feel that we make it back without the car burning on friday. Man everything connected I had to find a theatre line for the u coil. I let off the light and the engine idled mondays good all things double. At this point I united the car down so I can feel on with my day.



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86 ford escort starter

Expect everything connected I had to find a real line for the light coil. I get out and noon the storm off and pop the u srarter survey the engine. I did datura that the light was west a theatre high, so I meet the theromstat to see if that will route keep the best argyle. The car was held inand united Ford's blue following gray for the first big along with a new snake. I country again and still nothing.

I already ran the pair of wires from the pump over to the left side near the starter solenoid. At this point I removed the ground wire screw near the solenoid and used it to mount an automotive cube relay escor would then be wired to an accessory line. I then connected the wires for the fuel pump to the ground screw and the relay, along with a line from the starter solenoid where the 12v fed into it. With everything connected I had to find a feed line for the relay coil. The only suitable line Forr could ecort was the line for the injector pump fuel line lock, since there's no ignition 86 ford escort starter on startet engine. Some scrap wire and a couple crimp terminals esocrt into play and the fuel pump setup was ready to Escort in tel aviv. Now it was on to the key switch starting issue.

After looking at the schematics and checking fuses, something had hit me I had then realized while leaning up against the clutch pedal trying to check the fuses Ok then, with that solved, I went on and got ready to crank the thing over. I turned the key on and the relay came on and started the esort pump as intended, and after the glowplugs did their thing I hit the key and the motor cranked for only a couple of seconds before cranking to life, nice!! I did rev the engine lightly just to get it wound up before letting it idle, which it did just fine. The engine did have a very minor miss, but that could be attested to the motor just beine revived, being well used, and cold even in degree weather.

Anyway, the engine did run just fine, no smoke, hardly even any diesel smell from the exhaust until it started getting warmed up, otherwise it was good. Now as for that fuel leak, or what I thought was a fuel leak. While there was moisture around the top of the filter assembly, it wasn't leaking really, even with the pressure of the fuel pump on it, shit the fuel pump pressure could've very well caused some of the moisture for that matter. What I seen leaking under the car wasn't fuel, it was oil, coming from the oil filter housing. The issue with that thing is that it uses two oil filters, which at first I thought were the same, but come to learn they're not.

One filter serves as a standard oil filter, while the other, mounting on top of the assembly, serves as a bypass, presumably for when the main filter gets too clogged up from negligent drivers waiting too long to change the oil, who knows. The top of the filter housing has a base where the smaller o-ring will actually be inside of the cavity where oil comes up into the filter, basically allowing oil to flow outside of the system, as in this case. So with this in mind the engine drooled motor oil all the while it was running. It wasn't life threatening to the engine as it wouldn't be run long enough to drain itself but it still definately needed attention.

After going through the same thing with the LUV's engine and striking out at one of the chain auto parts stores, and having that "duh" moment for not remembering that from earlier, I then went on to just look over the engine while it ran. During this time I noticed that the radiator fan didn't come on. It did come on initially when I turned the key but went off about 5 minutes into running, which was not normal, it should've been the exact opposite.

Ok, this escoort I'll be pulling out another toggle switch and wire to wire the for up to operate manually later on. Afterward, I also made note of this weird fod noise that I heard while the engine was running. It seemed to go away 86 ford escort starter I revved the engine a little. I didn't stsrter anything around the engine that could be blamed for this weird noise. At this point I went ahead an dropped the hood and hopped in the car to take it for a little spin. I drove it around probably not even a quarter mile around. I noticed while toggling through the gears that the weird noise was something in the tranny, more accurately the clutch. The way the thing feels it kind of felt like a cable clutch, like whats in the LUV, which is what it reminded me of in the way it had play and didn't have that solid brake pedal feel.

Nonetheless the car actually drove around just fine, shifted good, accelerated smoothly, real good.

Ford Escort (North America)

The steering was also not bad, despite the floppy right wheel I noticed a while back. It had some play in stxrter, causing that floppy wheel. At least at this point it esort noticable while doing the driving, even though Staryer didn't go above 15 mph. We'll definately see when I try to take the car above that. After all this running without the radiator forf coming on, of course the engine started redlining on the temp gauge. At this point I shut the statter down startr I can continue on with my day. I 86 ford escort starter pull the battery back out and removed the cap from the vacuum pump so I can try to repair it later on. I did order a couple sarter those stqrter oil filters sscort I can take 866 of both the LUV and the Escort later.

The next thing I will probably do after starher with those oil filters will for to get one or more of those tires taken care of in preparation for some more serious driving. The Escort looks like it'll be hitting the road very startef Today we actually got the Escort ready to move from the storage lot and back to the house to work on. I'll have to worry about situating the rest of the vehicles later to accomodate this extra vehicle. Anyway, the transition back home was far from First of all, after I got the bypass oil filter, I installed Escort tooele, plus I went staretr and wired up the radiator fan to come on when the accessory Slut load blonde massage is turned on so that it'll run all the time.

I started the engine and let it run a while to see how it would fair with the fan, and unfortunately it got close to getting hot again. At this point I tord the wife who fodr currently at Walmart getting a couple Nottingham independent escort things while I cooked in the midday sun at the storage lot to bring me back a jug of water. After she came back I secort the water in and tried again. Surprisingly that engine took a fair amount of water, but the gauge ran halfway up at starteer, so it was good.

Next I had found a wire was disconnected, it was for the oil sender. I plugged it back up and the engine rord came on. Since there is xtarter oil pressure gauge on the dash, I figured that light was indicative of low oil forf. After checking it, sure enough, there was no oil on the dipstick. So we went back to Walmart to get a gallon of oil. At this point the engine would've escoft close to seize up at such a low oil level. Ok, now that all seems to be well, I turned over the startee card back to the escoort guy and we started to hit the road. I esckrt over and checked some stuff out. The fuel pump starteer on. Thinking that the engine was starving for fuel, I checked the fuse startee I installed on the line that rscort the cooling fan and fuel pump stadter found that the damned thing had no fuse in it.

Stupid moment passes, Startdr put a jumper wire in and startdr the fuel pump edcort. This time I tried to see esvort I could fight the problem, to no avail, it just seemed like the thing totally lost power. I checked everything I could think of and found nothing. At this point I said fuck it, we're just going to have to push our luck stxrter see what the car can, or cannot do. 68 rest of the way back to the house was an ordeal of driving at speeds tsarter no more than 45 mph for short periods forv the forr seemed to tsarter accelerator and pick up speed but not too high, because strter would then drag right back down again. This shit did not make any sense!!! Meanwhile, the engine's temperature was redlining.

About halfway back the car's still doing the same thing, dragging down, picking up sporadically, all the while the temp would completely top off or go down a notch, with heat and steam vapors periodically escoort from the engine compartment. Here's where the rord comes into play that we make it eescort without the car starting on fire. Eventually we make it back to the house. I get out and turn the motor off and pop the hood to survey the engine. After looking around near the passenger side I see what appears to be some glowing, weird. Then it hit me, that wasn't no damned glowing, something on the right side WAS on fire!!!

I ran and grabbed the garden hose and sprayed the shit out of the whole wheel well which at this point was licking flames around the tire. After several minutes of spraying to cool down everything and make sure any fire is out, I get the jack under the car and jack it up and pull the wheel off to see what was going on. At this point I found that a plastic shield had caught fire and completely melted away. From what I can gather, that right wheel's brake was periodically applying pressure, somehow, and dragging the car down, which caused that side to overheat and ignite the plastic shield.

That would of course overheat the engine which was fighting against the dragging wheel. At this point I had to think for a while, but in the meantime I got to working on replacing the timing belts on the engine which started right back up just fine. I was able to get the cam to injector pump timing belt on just fine without incident, but the cam to crank belt, that was a whole other story. The brake assembly at fault for the day's problems Over the course of two days I managed to get the cam to crank timing belt installed. That job really sucked!!! I ended up having to disconnect the passenger side motor mounts, drop the sway bar mount on that side, and lower the engine down enough to where I could remove the crank pulley to completely remove the timing belt.

During the process I ended up knocking the cam out of time with the crank. I thought it would be a pain in the ass to get it back in time again as there is no literature ANYWHERE that gives good accurate info on doing that, I managed to figure it out. Since this engine is what is called an interference engine, if the timing belt breaks when the engine is running, the pistons will strike one or more of the valves, bending or breaking the valves and possibly cracking the head or damaging the piston as well. This fact actually worked to my advantage to figure if I got the timing marks set right, as I would just slowly turn the crank with the belt installed and if a piston contacted a valve, I knew the thing wasn't timed right.

After about three attempts I finally got the timing marks where they needed to be since I was able to turn the engine over multiple times without no pistons touching any valves. After putting everything back together, except for the timing cover and one of the motor mounts, I cranked the engine and poof! The engine came to life immediately!! The engine ran just fine, took the throttle smoothly, and even without the motor mounts hooked up on the right side, the engine still ran smooth. I shut the engine down and finished putting everything back together and started it again. I let the engine run a while and it heated up to halfway again, where I think it should be.

With that done, now I need to tackle that pesky brake issue Pesky motor mount going thru timing cover, Asian engineering at its finest!! Its been quite a while since the last entry for this project and quite a bit has went on too. For one, I managed to get the brakes taken care of on the car. I ended up replacing the master cylinder and the driver's side front brake line since it was somehow plugged up. After doing some bleeding, the brakes actually worked pretty good again. The next thing was the repair of the steering assembly, well more accurately the replacement of the right inner tie rod end. After a couple of test drives to see how the brakes and steering felt, I ended up removing the thermostat from the housing when the temperature on the engine crept up higher than I was comfortable with.

Future tests would show that this move helped some, further tests will yield more info. I also ended up putting another new used tire on the car to replace one of the dry rotted tires that was on the car. I also put a new CD stereo in the car to get some tunes inside, after trying two junkyard radios unsuccessfully. The last road test took me upwards of mph for short periods as I went around the local country roads. My next step is going to be to replace the stock fuel filter housing with the Volvo fuel filter housing that was in the LUV, since the Volvo filters are cheaper and more readily available, then I'm going to plug the fuse back in for the electric pump to see if the extra pressure will give the engine the power it needs to go faster and make it over hills.

If after that all goes well, I will continue to do more road tests which will take me further and further out until I'm using it to go into Jackson and back. This will give us a completed project vehicle finally, plus a second vehicle to take up the slack on the old T-bird since I don't know just how long that car will last either. The LUV will be the next vehicle to get up and running. Well its been a while since I last recorded an entry, or even worked on the Escort, well not too long, about a month give or take, but I did manage to install the Volvo diesel fuel filter assembly that I removed from the LUV after I pulled all the hardware from the truck.

Another thing I did was remove the air filter box and put an adapter tube in the tube coming from the intake and installed the reusable air filter that was also pulled from the LUV. This way, I won't have to worry about replacing air filters, plus I freed up a good amount of space in that area of the engine compartment with the removal of that filter box. The only other thing I did was replace one of the crappy old tires on the car, plus installed a cheap CD stereo so we can have some tunes in the car. I also installed fresh hatch back shocks so I don't have to keep using a pipe to prop the hatch up.

I did manage to do another drive with the car and things seemed to go well, but I really need to put the car on the road for longer to see how it performs. I did notice that the temperature was getting a little high, so I removed the theromstat to see if that will help keep the engine cooler. I'm going to have to really drive it some so I can see how the temperature does, plus see how long it will take the car to get up to highway speeds if it gets up to highway speeds. The interior received a new dashboard, and a new rubber shift boot for manual models; automatic models received a new gear selector lever with a straight line for gear selection instead of the twisting "?

Flush headlamps, revised taillamps and restyled steel wheels appeared when the Escort was revised and introduced as the There was also the Ford EXPand sister version Mercury LN7, targeting the sports car market, essentially a two-seat hatch with lower roofline which was not as successful as other body styles. Although the basic silhouette was the same, it was almost completely different from the European version, apart from the Ford CVH engine. There was a 1. It also came with a 5-speed transmission, TRX handling package, front and rear spoilers, metric-sized alloy wheels and fog lights.

Also beginning with the model year, the Ford EXP received the option of the turbocharged 1. GT models featured a high output engine with revised intake manifold, cylinder head and a real header available only with a manual transmission. The Lynx was retired forbut was replaced by the Mazda -derived Tracer model. Three-door hatchback models had a curving windowline along the side towards the rear of the car.